Spain and Portugal for Visitors

Posted by : John Ross on Aug 21, 2007 - 12:43 PM FoodAndDrink

Though not actually available until 2008. the Maldonado family firm's 2006 Alba Quercus Reserve Iberian hams are being reserved at the whopping price of $2000 each, making this probably the most expensive ham in the world. Unfortunately the combination of high prices and pigs has brought out the worst in journalists around the world. For example, one headline from the normally unflappable Associated Press jests "Spain Hams It Up With Priciest Porker." And I really think a case could be made that writing thiat bad should be fined, or worse. Read on for the story, and more examples of Horrible Hoggish Headlines (aagh! It's catching!).

The essence of Iberian ham is that it is made from top quality, acorn-fed pigs, but Maldonado has gone further in various ways in order to increase the product quality. Based in Alberquerque, Extremadura, Spain (ham fans will recognise this as Spain's finest Iberian ham producing area), the Maldonado family has in one way or another been involved in ham making for generations, but it is in the last couple of decades that it has mixed technology with traditional techniques to raise the quality of its products to new heights. In terms of pig-rearing, Maldonado pigs are pure-bred, free-range Iberian pigs and dehesa-raised, the dehesa being a Mediterranean ecological habitat characterized by less-than-thick woodland shading and watering rich pasture. In addition, Maldonado has increased the length of curing time for Iberian ham from the usual year or so to 24 or even 36 months, and, given that the Alba Quercus series will be a limited edition of 80-100 hams, it is interesting but not all that surprising that its products have achieved the price tag of $2,100 a leg.

Fortunately for most visitors to Spain, Spanish cured ham comes in less expensive forms. Though pricey, jamón ibérico, Iberian ham, is normally nothing like as dear as the Maldonado reserve ham, and can usually be bought for little more than 40 euros a kilo (special hams, not quite as special as the Alba Quercus, may cost over 50 euros a kilo). And the most accessible Spanish cured ham, jamón serrano, is unlikely to set you back more than 25 euros a kilo. I am talking shop prices, here, and you would need to allow considerably more in a tavern or restaurant for your ración or bocadillo, which would normally contain about 150 grams of meat. But if you are picnicking, making your own bocadillo from shop-bought ham, you can get a fine, filling, nutritious meal out of 3 euros or so worth of ham, and many such shops are perfectly comfortable to sell you your barra de pan, french-style loaf of bread, nicely sliced lengthwise, so all you have to do is put the ham in the middle.

I couldn't bring myself to list more awful headlines in the end, sorry. Do a Google search on "2006 Alba Quercus Reserve" and you'll find plenty yourself.

More information:
Ibéricos Maldonado: http://www.ibericosmaldonado.com
Online Spanish ham from Ibergour: http://www.ibergour.com