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Although its airport
is the gateway to the Costa del Sol, Málaga is more
of a working port than a resort, with the usual implications
- a certain air of seediness, a slight feel of danger in parts,
an active sex industry... But it is a much more prosperous
place than it used to be, and making great strides towards
attaining a European urban level. For visitors, it has the
additional attraction that it is trying to capitalize on being
the birthplace of Picasso,
joining the long list of places which claim to be his spiritual
home.
Málaga was founded by the Phoenicians,
like many other places in the area. With the exception of
the Roman theatre, though, the Moorish occupation is the oldest
part of its history of which there are visible traces.
Sights.- Málaga's most important monuments
are the Alcazaba
(09.30-20.00 (summer), 08.30-19.00 (winter), closed on Tuesday)
and the Gibralfaro
Castle (09.00-20.00 (summer), 09.00-17.50 (winter),
open every day, entrance free). They are to be found next
to each other, on a hill dominating the city and, especially,
the port. Of the two, the recently restored Alcazaba is of
most interest, though you might as well take both in while
you are here. The Alcazaba is an 11th-century, Moorish fortified
palace, once the home of the Nazir dynasty which made Málaga
the capital of a short-lived independent emirate. It is a
good example of the Moorish military architecture of the time,
more flexible and adapted to the terrain than its European
equivalent. On the way out, you will find a 1st-century BC
Roman theatre, also recently restored. The Gibralfaro
Castle is a later building, constructed above the Alcazaba
in the 14th century precisely to protect it from the new threat
of artillery, and worth visiting if only for the view.
Tourists are encouraged to visit Málaga's cathedral
10.00-18.45, Monday to Friday, 10.00-17.45 h, Saturday, when
the cathedral museum is open. It is one of the great
cathedrals of Spain, though not one of the most attractive.
Its main claim to fame is that one of its towers was never
finished, leading to its nickname, La Manquita (literally,
'one-armed').
The Casa
Natal de Picasso, the house where Picasso was born,
now a museum, has a number of interesting works by the artist,
including etchings and pottery, and is an important Picassology
centre. (The Museo
de Bellas Artes, Fine Arts Museum, is being moved
to a new location and is closed for the moment.)
Beaches.- The beaches at El
Palo
and Pedregalejo are preferable to the excessively
urban beaches of La
Malagueta
and La Caleta.
Where to Stay.- Málaga has no shortage of accommodation,
especially towards the bottom of the price scale, but it is
not always as good as it should be and you might want to think
about upping your usual standards - three stars instead of
two, for example. The historic centre itself is probably your
best bet.
Eating and Drinking.- Málaga's
gastronomic speciality is fried fish, especially small varieties
- pescaito frito. The best places to eat, whether
you want a knife-and-fork supper or tapas, tend to be in the
centre or, especially, the seaside suburbs of Pedregalejo
or El Palo. Málaga wine enjoys deserved fame.
It is usually sweet and served as a dessert wine or between
meals. Moclinejo wine is supposed to be good - I have never
tried it.
Nightlife.- In the evening, the Calle Larios, running
down to the port, is the place to be seen and to indulge in
a few glasses of wine and some tapas. Nearby is the Calle
Granada, which gets going a little later on. Or head for the
beach area of Pedregalejo or La Malagueta, the area east of
the port (the two blend into each other). The latter is a
modern area, where you will find no shortage of pubs and clubs
in summer, though things tend to be dead in winter.
Getting There.- You will probably have landed at Málaga
Airport, which is connected to the city by the cercanias,
local railway line. If you are coming from Madrid, the bus
is considerably cheaper
than the train.
This is not the case if you are travelling from Barcelona,
however.
Getting Around.- Here is a handy pdf map
from Turespaña. Remember that, except for the centre
itself, Málaga is a little larger than you first think
and you will wear yourself out if you do not use the buses
and taxis.
Málaga
Links
Málaga
Hotels
Malaga
Hostels
Last-Minute
Bookings
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