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But here I want to talk about Mijas
itself, Mijas pueblo. As well as being one of the most
attractive places in the south of Spain and having spectacular
views over the Costa del Sol, it is an Andalusian 'white village'
and very possibly the only one many visitors to the Costa
del Sol will have the chance to see. What this means is that
it conserves its essentially Arabic mediaeval layout and so
has a slightly exotic feel about it that visitors find hard
to pin down. It was 'discovered' in the sixties and is now
home to people of nearly sixty nationalities, according to
Andalucia.com, without having become too seriously spoilt
in the process, although it has undoubtedly been changed.
Mijas is perhaps most famous for its burro-taxis,
donkey taxis, which are to be found all round the central
plaza, and which you will see everywhere. They seem
to be irresistibly photogenic to tourists and are more practical
than you would think. Although Mijas is small, its narrow,
winding streets are on steep slopes and simply getting from
one end of the town to the other can be quite tiring.
What to See and Do.- Wander the streets, stopping
from time to time when you are melting with the heat to have
a drink of anything with ice in it. As well, Mijas has a few
minor sights: the Carromato de Max (lit. 'Max's
Covered Wagon) (Avda. del Compás, s/n, open every day,
summer 10.00-22.00, winter 10.00-19.00) is a small but very
varied personal collection of miniatures, including a shrunken
head. The Ermita
de la Virgen de la Peña (Hermitage of the Virgin
of the Rock) is actually carved into the rock. The small Plaza
de Toros is variously described as square, rectangular,
boat-shaped, or irregular in shape; surprisingly good bullfights
are put on there. There is also a bullfighting museum.
When to Go.- All year. In the last two weeks of July
and first two weeks of August, the number of day-trippers
can be oppressive. The most important local festival is the
Romería de San Antón, on the first Sunday
in May, with carriages and horsemen.
Where to Stay.- As well as the hotels on the coast,
there are a large number of villas available for rent near
Mijas. There are hotels and pensions in the village itself,
but not very abundant. I expect the Oficina de Turismo
(Plaza Virgen de la Peña) will be able to help
if you arrive without a booking.
Eating and Drinking.- The local specialities
are said to be guiso de pato, duck stew, and guiso
de callo, pheasant stew. A curiosity is that El Mirlo
Blanco (Plaza Constitución, 2) is 'perhaps the
only restaurant on the Costa del Sol offering (I am quoting
from 'Gourmetour 2001') "authentic, traditional Basque
cuisine," which I thoroughly recommend. Expect to pay
4,000-6,000 pesetas per person, which is very reasonable.
Aside from this, there is plenty of choice. Around the Plaza
de la Constitución is where you are most likely to
get a panoramic view from your table.
Nightlife.- Not here, wrong place. Make for Mijas
Costa, or head up to Torremolinos.
Getting There.- Your Costa del Sol hotel may well
offer bus trips to or including Mijas. Otherwise, public buses
connect it with most places nearby. Although Mijas is only
8 kilometres up in the hills from Fuengirola, the road is
slow and you need to allow a good three quarters of an hour
for a bus ride from, say, Torremolinos, but it is a most enjoyable
climb.
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Torremolinos - Let the Good
Times Roll > Page 1,
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