Costa del Sol - Torremolinos

Torremolinos is perhaps the original Spanish Mediterranean resort. While the municipal website recounts a rather charming tale of an Englishman who turned a local country estate into a residence for foreigners in the nineteen twenties, it was really in the fifties and early sixties that the germ of mass tourism sprouted. It was then that young, proto-hippies from Britain and the north of Europe began to arrive, seeking some Mediterranean hedonism. They often stayed in hostals and pensions or took rooms in private houses rather than filling the new hotels, being nearly penniless, but a penny went quite a long way with the exchange rate of the time.

It established itself as a major holiday destination in the sixties and has never really looked back, indeed has moved with the times very nicely. Considerable strides have been made in gardening the town, for example. And the visitor is pleasantly surprised to find that, behind the towering hotels and the gleaming masses on the beaches, it still has a decidedly village feel to it, in slightly bizarre contrast to its mix of peoples - tourists, of course, including some of the loveliest swimsuit fillers a man could want to see, firmly installed expatriates of various nationalities, including some who look as if they are on the run from the police (and could well be), retired people, gays, including transvestites (Torremolinos is emphatically on the gay tourism circuit), surprisingly unflappable Spaniards... I love it. And if fun is your goal, you need look no further.

What to See and Do.- Go with the flow. If you do not want sun, sea, sand and very possibly sex, you could be in the wrong place. All the activities typical of the Costa del Sol - golf, sailing, diving, and so on - are available, as are the possible excursions - Mijas, Nerja, Malaga, Marbella, Ronda... But Torremolinos is really about having a good time - beaches, pubs, bars, restaurants, clubs, discos... And, crowds apart, it is an agreeable place to walk around, still conserving some of the feel of a fishing village.

What to Do with Children.- If they tire of the beach, take them to Aquapark Torremolinos, or down the road to the somewhat old-fashioned Tívoli Amusement Park at neighbouring Benalmádena, or to watch the horse-riding display or go on a trek at El Ranchito Equestrian Centre, or take scuba diving lessons with them, or...

When to Go.- The last two weeks of July and first two weeks of August are overcrowded, as in most parts, and the mid-winter is as depressing as in resorts everywhere. Apart from that, any time. The most important local festival, the Feria de San Miguel (September 29th) is a surprisingly authentic, quite spectacular affair, with decorated carts pulled by oxen (as well as rock concerts, Mr and Miss OAP contests and other less convincing traditions).

Where to Stay.- Torremolinos has plenty of accommodation, including no fewer than twelve four-star hotels, but cheap lodging is harder to find, though it exists. In terms of value for money, a package holiday bought in advance is almost certainly your best bet. If you have no booking, they may be able to help in one of the Oficinas de Turismo (there are three, easily found, open all year, but in winter only in the morning).

Eating and Drinking.- There are over 250 restaurants in Torremolinos. Some of the best bars and restaurants are found on or near the beachfront in La Carihuela, once the fishermen's district, now the most upmarket area of Torremolinos.

Nightlife.- Torremolinos is still considered the nightlife capital of the Costa del Sol (though Benalmádena is actually livelier). There are plenty of good bars and you do not really need to enter a club or a discotheque before midnight or 1 a.m. When you do, the first choice seems to be El Palladium (Av. Palma de Mallorca), a huge disco with different areas and a swimming pool, although others favour the neighbouring Fun Beach, which is even bigger and where the waitpersons wear swimsuits. Gay nightlife (and, curiously, nightlife for 'an older crowd') is centred around La Nogalera, the most famous gay spot being the Abadia.

Getting There.- From Malaga: the local railway, cercanias, links the city of Malaga, its airport and all coastal towns as far as Fuengirola, including Torremolinos. From Madrid: by car (begin by taking the NIV), 540 km, less than five hours; the bus (seven daily) takes about seven and a half hours instead of the six and a half by train, but is less than half the price.

Back to the beginning > The Costa del Sol > Page 1, 2, 3, 4