Much of the visitor's time is spent climbing. Up to the castle, up the Santa Justa elevator, up steps, up the Discoveries Monument, up the Belém tower... You will probably begin your visit in the Rossio, the main square since mediaeval times. What is more, you are likely to end up here over and over again: the Rossio is one of those places, like Picadilly Circus in London or the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakesh, that draws you towards it. With its neighbours, the Praça dos Restauradores and the Praça da Figueira, it is the day-time hub of the city.

The Rossio

Stroll around the geometrical Baixa, the lower town, as you head down to the waterfront. Many of the streets here are still associated with the trades traditionally plied there: silversmiths and goldsmiths (Rua da Prata, dos Douradores), cobblers (Sapateiros), shopkeepers (Comercio) . The elevador de Santa Justa, designed by Eiffel, overlooks this area and the affluent quarter of Chiado, on the other side. Much of the Chiado was severely damaged (again) by a fire in 1988, but has since been restored. Head up the Rua Garret for a coffee in one of the cafés.

Praça do Comercio

Down by the river and open to it on one side, the Praça do Comercio is less appealing: there is something about its proportions that produces a feeling of exposure. It is one of those town-planning mistakes: evidently designed to be full of people, conspicuous by their absence. Perhaps because of this, it gives you the feeling you are in danger of being mugged in broad daylight. (Actually, Lisbon is one of the safest cities in Europe, though beware of pickpockets.)

All photographs ©2001 Antonia Fernández. All rights reserved. Used by permission.