Stop for a look at the Romanesque cathedral or sé, although it is more interesting from the outside than in. 
Wander up the hillside through the oldest part of the city, Alfama, once a Moorish quarter, though it is even older than that. It has a totally different feel about it to the rest of the city. Until recently, it was mostly a fishermen's quarter and it breeds Fado singers like the Bronx is supposed to produce boxers: you will find a smattering of venues here. (The Alfama is the centre of activity during the immense Lisbon Festas in June.)

 The streets and alleys are so narrow and winding here that many street maps give up the struggle. When (rather than if) you get lost, just keep heading up or down.

At the top of the hill, look out over the city from the ramparts of the Castelo de São Jorge and walk around the gardens before descending.

The Bairro Alto, on the other side of the Baixa, is where you will probably end up at night, but it is worth exploring by day as well, having a completely different atmosphere. It is best approached by the Santa Justa lift (which takes you up to the attractive semi-ruins of the Convento do Carmo and gives you a splendid view over the Baixa) or one of the two funicular trams.

All photographs ©2001 Antonia Fernández. All rights reserved. Used by permission.

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