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The visitor's attention is first caught by the most prominent members
of the cofradías,
the nazarenos
and penitentes, who follow the pasos. The nazarenos
are mostly men (and boys), though many cofradías now admit
girls and women as nazarenos. They wear long tunics and masks
over their faces, usually draped from
high, pointed caps which inevitably remind foreign spectators of
the Klu Klux Kan (who copied the idea). The penitentes carry
full-size crosses. In addition, some may follow the route in bare
feet, or wearing shackles, even a ball-and-chain: this is because
they have made a promesa, a vow. The men are followed by
the cofradía's marching band, while groups of manolas,
black-dressed women wearing shawls and peinetas, the Spanish
comb-headdress, bring up the rear.
The pasos are carried on the shoulders of young men called
costaleros,
20-30 per paso, who consider it a privilege to carry over
2,000 kg on their shoulders for several kilometres. They are out
of sight when the paso is in motion and wear jeans and t-shirts,
with towelling wrapped around their heads, reminding visitors of
a certain age of Monty Python's Gumbys. This towelling drapes down
to protect the napes of their necks, though many shoulders have
been rubbed raw well before the end of the procession. If the cofradía
is not large enough for costaleros to be found or the
paso not especially important, it may be motorized in some
way. The costaleros'
work is made more complicated by their being hidden under the skirts
of the paso which, as well as carrying the figures, is ornately
decorated with cloths and flowers. This means they are working in
horribly stifling conditions and that they cannot see where they
are going. They have to follow the instructions of the capataz,
a senior hermano, who walks in front of the paso,
beating the ground with a stick to communicate. And the work of
the costaleros requires more skill than is obvious at first
sight. True, the basic manoeuvres are simple if strenuous: lifting
the paso, moving forward and turning (these done with a shuffling
movement of the feet), stopping and putting it down. But difficulties
come when a paso must, for example, turn a particularly tight
corner in a narrow street. This is like watching a gang of invisible,
perfectly coordinated removal men get a piano up an impossibly winding
staircase, and is often applauded by spectators. And other crowd-pleasing
techniques are used: swaying the paso, rocking it
or even the grandstander, when the costaleros lift the paso
above their heads to the full extent of arms and hold it there for
a few impossible seconds.
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