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1.- What Not to Expect

You can enjoy a bullfight for the spectacle alone, but to appreciate it, you need to have some idea of what it is really about. Ideally, you should see your first bullfight in the company of an aficionado who can explain what is happening. (This was intended to be the first in an occasional series of articles about the most characteristic of Spanish customs. )

 
 More of this Feature
• Part 2: What to Look For
• Part 3: The First Tercios
• Part 4: The Final Suerte
• Part 5: Where and When
 
 Related Resources
• Bullfighting

 
 Elsewhere on the Web
• John Kalucki's Photos
• Mundo Taurino

The first time many people see a bullfight, after the initial reactions (the first is usually nervousness - just how gory is it going to be?), they are often surprised to find themselves bored. This is, of course, because they do not know how to interpret what they are seeing and their preformed ideas hamper their understanding. In the Plaza de Las Ventas, for example, it is common to see a mass exit of uncomprehending Japanese tourists after the third bull (of six).

Because of the English word, "bullfight," many believe that it is, in some way, a sport. It is not. In Spanish, the expression is corrida de toros, with no reference to fighting or any other kind of competition. The bull is not expected to try and win - it cannot.* The bullfighter is not awarded points for strength, or tactics, or anything else, not even bravery. A bullfight is not covered in the sports sections of newspapers, but in the "Culture" section, because it is not sport - it is arte or espectáculo, a show, like a play or a ballet or an opera (and if you feel that making a show out of ritual slaughter is unacceptable, to tell the truth, I am not prepared to argue with you).

With his emphasis on the macho aspects of bullfighting, Hemingway contributed somewhat to this misunderstanding (but it is scarcely possible to write about bullfighting in English without mentioning him). It is true that bullfighters are respected for their courage, but they do not win ears and tails for it. Recklessness or even excessive daring is disdained by discriminating aficionados. A few of the best bullfighters have been near cowards (Hemingway writes at length about the legendary El Gallo, about whom it was said that "for a bull to kill him would be in bad taste;" more recently, the now-retired Curro Romero could on occasion be fairly craven).

*Yes, I know bulls are occasionally spared - never in a first-class bullring.

2.- What to Look For

So if bullfighting is not a sport, what is it? As I have said, it is an espectáculo, somewhere between circus and ballet, and its practitioners are accorded the same respect as writers or musicians.

The standard bullfight has six bulls, fought by three bullfighters. Each bull should be killed within a period of not more than twenty minutes, in three stages called tercios, directed by the president of the bullring. You will see him draping handkerchiefs of different colours from the presidential box, signals which are echoed musically by the band.

From the moment the bull first charges belligerently, almost playfully, into the ring, to its dead body being dragged out by a team of mules, a script is followed, aimed at reducing the bull's strength until the matador is able to exercise near-complete control over it. This is the point - for the bullfighter to come to dominate the beast to the extent that it obeys his will (and it is a killer beast, however much sympathy it may stir in you, and one that may weigh up to eight hundred kilograms - a modestly-sized car), until bullfighter and bull move together with grace and in harmony.

The bull may be met by the matador himself or by one of the peones in his cuadrilla while the matador watches. In either case, the first, spectacular moves with the cape as the unweakened bull charges around the ring have a purpose - to test the bull, find out how it moves, its preferences, its dangerousness. Non-aficionados often prefer this part of the bullfight to the later, final stage when the matador uses the smaller cape, the muleta. But in fact, it is preliminary and of  little importance, though some bullfighters are famous for their artistry in it. 

 

All photographs and images ©1991-2001 John Kalucki. Used by permission. All rights reserved.

Next page > The Beginning - the First Tercios > Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

 

 

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