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Your
first bullfight does not have to be a first-rate one. In fact,
as in boxing or cricket, second- or third-rate or amateur
events can often be more enjoyable, the performers substituting
enthusiasm for skill and the spectators bringing a desire
to enjoy themselves rather than discernment. But in the same
way as no-one who had only seen amateur boxing or the farce
that passes for professional boxing nowadays would be able
to discuss the genius of Mohammed Ali, you cannot really say
you know about bullfights if you have only seen second- or
third-rate ones.
Bullrings
are classified in three categories according to size, facilities
and number of bullfights held. Good and bad bullfights are
to be seen at all of them, but, not unsurprisingly, the best
are seen in the first-class bullrings, which are in Madrid,
Seville, Barcelona, Bilbao, Valencia and Saragossa (as well
as Pamplona, which is a slightly different kettle of fish).
The
outstanding events of the bullfighting season are the great
fairs of Valencia, Seville, Bilbao, Pamplona and, above all,
Madrid. The Feria de Valencia is a relatively new event,
of less importance than the festival of Las
Fallas, in March. Seville's major bullfighting event,
second only to Madrid, is the Feria
de Abril. Madrid has the most important bullfighting
festival in the world, that of its patron saint, San
Isidro, in May. Largely thanks to Hemingway, the festival
of San
Fermines in Pamplona in July is world-famous (and
full of Americans). And in August, the relative cool of the
Basque Country is host to the Feria
de Bilbao.
Undoubtedly,
the best way to see a good bullfight is to choose one with
good bulls and good bullfighters. These are subjects I shall
deal with at a later date.
All photographs and images Š1991-2001 John Kalucki. Used
by permission. All rights reserved.
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