The Eastern Algarve - Tavira

This coastline falls within the Ria Formosa National Park, of great interest to nature-lovers, especially bird watchers. (It bears many similarities to its neighbour over the border in Spain, the famous Coto Doñana.) This means development has been limited and crowds are easy to avoid. The estuary of the Formosa forms a series of islands, ilhas (Faro, Barreta, Culatra, Armona and Tavira), essentially sand-spits with long, dune-backed beaches, behind which form mud flats, lagoons and salt marshes.

The best place to use as a base for exploring the area is the town of Tavira, an atmospheric, working tuna-fishing port with an important history. Accommodation can be hard to find: ask in the tourist office if you have not booked. Stroll around, try the local speciality (fresh tuna with onion) or a cataplana, have a drink or two... The town has a nice ruined castle, and twenty-one churches. Most of these are not in use or only used on occasional days of the year, but can be visited if you ask around.

Tavira is about 2 km by road away from the actual sea. The best way to reach the Ilha de Tavira is by a boat leaving from the pier in the town, down the river through the salt marsh. Or there is a shuttle service from a wharf immediately opposite the island. This is very long, nearly 14 km, and narrow. When you get off the boat, you have to thread past a number of holiday homes and a campsite (which you should book for, if you are so minded) to get to the other side of the island. When you reach the beach, as with all these places, it is likely to be crowded, but a five- or ten-minute walk will take you to more open spaces. It is officially a nudist beach, though you will not notice until you get away from the throng - nudists are surprisingly modest, sometimes.

Another way to reach the island is to go to Pedras d'el Rei, a holiday village a few kilometres west, and catch the miniature railway across the mud flats to the beach of Barril (same island, different beach).

Car rental is your best bet for moving around, locally or further afield. Buses are reasonable, but infrequent, though CP, the Portuguese railway company, is quite convenient, whether you are heading west towards Faro or east towards Vila Real de San Antonio, on the border with Spain.

The sister ilhas of Armona and Culatra, the charming hamlet of Luz de Tavira, and Santa Lucia, an octopus-fishing village, are all nearby and worth visiting. Have a nice time.