| Local resorts.
It is true that many of the options available to skiers
in Spain cater to essentially local markets. Navacerrada
and Valdesquí,
for example, serve day trippers from Madrid and would not normally be of great
interest to visitors from abroad. But snow enthusiasts
have more possibilities to choose from.
 The
Sierra Nevada. The most enticing winter sports
destinations in Spain are the Pyrenees and the Sierra
Nevada, which soars to 3,481 m (11,425 ft). "Sol
y Nieve" is the rather twee name adopted
by the ski resort here, the most southerly
ski resort in Europe. Skiing here can be great
and the good weather makes it more enjoyable still.
But be warned that it suffers from serious overcrowding
at weekends and, particularly, Easter, when the combination
of huge numbers of people and the lateness of the
season can make for a frustrating experience. Long
queues followed by a descent on a slope in inadequate
condition is an equation that shortens tempers. Francisco
(Paco) Fernández Ochoa, Spain's Olympic gold medallist
in the slalom, recommends the Sierra Nevada in January-February.
The Pyrenees. For the purposes of this article,
the Pyrenees consist of the Aragonese Pyrenees, Andorra,
and the Catalonian Pyrenees.
Aragón
(Huesca).
Beginning in the west, the Aragonese Pyrenees are
usually reached through Jaca,
a lively town with an appeal of its own, a Romanesque
cathedral and an enormous, sixteenth-century fort,
the Ciudadela,
overlooking the town. From here, you have a choice
of ski resorts, including the oldest, Candanchu,
now twinned with the newer Astun.
Jaca is basing its bid to host the 2010 Winter Olympics
on the facilities here, so quality skiing is assured.
Andorra.
I do not say the "Andorran Pyrenees" because
it is unnecessary — the whole country falls within
these mountains. And for those of us who put a notch
on our belts for every country we visit, Andorra
offers the extra appeal of being one of the smallest
countries in the world, crossable in something like
an hour, depending on the often heavy traffic. Andorra's
economy is based on tourism and duty-free shopping
and, it is said, smuggling and a smattering of money-laundering.
Its capital, Andorra
la Vella, is not especially attractive but pleasant
enough, and can serve as a base. Pal, a small, village
resort, and the larger Arinsal
have been connected by a ski lift so that skiers can
enjoy the slopes of both. Soldeu
el Tarter will appeal to serious skiers, while
Pas
de la Casa / Grau Roig, located in the highest
mountain pass in Europe, is the oldest resort in the
principality.
Catalonia.
The Catalonian Pyrenees offer the most choice. The
Vall
de Nuria is very beautiful at any time of year
and worth visiting just for the breathtaking, 45-minute
ride up the valley in the rack railway (the only access).
Baquiera
Beret is the largest ski resort in Spain, recommended
by Paco Fernández Ochoa for skiing in March-April,
i.e., when the Sierra Nevada is past its best, while
Boí
Taüll gives you the possibility of a descent from
the vertiginous altitude of 2,750 m.
|
Cities of Spain
