Spain and Portugal for Visitors

Camino de Santiago

In theory, the Camino de Santiago is any road which reaches the pilgrimage destination of Santiago de Compostela in the Galician province of La Coruña, but for those coming from Northern Europe, there are four recognised, marked, and certified routes, the most famous of which is the Camino Francés, the French Way. It is one of the greatest walks in the world, whether you are a true pilgrim, a Shirley MacLaine-style kook, or just a hiker who likes some purpose in his rambles. The Way of Saint James, French version, is the Spanish leg of long-distance walk GR 65, which you begin in the Basque Country, at either Saint Jean de Pied de Port in France or Roncesvalles in Spain. It runs down through Navarre, crosses the gentle La Rioja, enters Old Castile and Spain's meseta, tableland, exiting through the mountains of León, then rolls over the hills of Galicia to Santiago. Most who complete it like to make the extra two days' walk to the headland of Fisterra, if only to see the sea - hence the use of the scallop shell as a symbol of the Camino.

You can travel the Camino de Santiago any way you choose, by car or bus or Lear jet, and no-one will mind. But you cannot say you have "done" the Camino unless it was more or less under your own steam (and don't think you can leave the car just around the corner, either - the Camino is patrolled), specifically walking, cycling (and even cyclists will not be able to follow the whole, authentic, walkers' route), with a donkey or on a horse. Other travellers are not allowed into the albergues to sleep, and motorized pilgrims will not be able to have their credenciales stamped (you need your credencial in order to get your Compostela, the Latin certificate of pilgrimage issued by the authorities of Santiago's cathedral). According to the Via Michelin route planner, it would take you about 9 hours to drive from Roncesvalles to Santiago. You can cycle the Camino in about two weeks, and to walk its 778 kilometres you will need to allow "on average, 4 - 5 weeks," according to the Confraternity of Saint James - I would allow a wee bit more myself. Many do it in sections, one stretch this year, another the next, and non-pilgrims often simply pick a bit to do that looks enjoyable. The final stretch from Astorga to Santiago is a popular choice for this, but even that should not be underestimated - it is 254 kilometres, something like nine days' walk, and a lot hillier than it looks at first sight. The entry into Santiago is quite enough for many.

If it takes your fancy to do the Camino properly, remember that a pilgrimage is supposed to be penance, after all, so the Camino is a far from easy undertaking, and by no means everyone makes it to the end. If you are not in good condition and, particularly, have not done a fair deal of walking in recent years, I would advise you to forget it. Apart from the effort of walking as such, you will need stout footwear, a backpack or other means of carrying your belongings, a full day's supply of water (I can't stress this too much - the Camino often has a punishing lack of shade), at least some food, and so on, in other words, you will be carrying more weight than normally. Muscle injuries, strained tendons and torn ligaments are common, especially in the first few days of the Camino when you are fresh and overestimate your walking capabilities.

Do take a detailed guidebook and especially a map. The markings for the Camino are sometimes absent or confusing, and there are three types. The standard is a yellow arrow, which means the Camino de Santiago. You may also see red and white bars, which indicate GR 65, and the scallop symbol, often in relief and often on the side of buildings, which is another way to represent the Camino. As GR 65 is not actually obliged to follow the Camino, and the scallops are often more decorative than orientative, your best bet is to follow the yellow arrows (the French Way is considered well marked, but...). An even better bet is to research properly before you go, as the Camino frequently deviates from the obvious route.

I am talking about the Camino as a long trek rather than a pilgrimage, but I do not underestimate the spiritual value of the Way. It is not for me, but, without counting the people who have actual visions, you cannot read much about the Camino before you come across affirmations like "My life will never be the same;" "I didn't go for religious reasons, but when I was finished I had brightened my spirit;" or "I still can't put my finger on it, but something special happens on the camino." I do think, however, that in many cases at least, the Camino's life-enhancing qualities are really less due to its supposed religious qualities than to explicable causes which any competent military leader would understand: overcoming obstacles, the bonding of a common goal, the adventure, self-realization, and so on. Many of those who undertake it are empty nesters, suddenly free after a lifetime of looking after someone else, for a few it is their first time abroad and for many it is the first serious physical exercise they have done in years, quite exhilirating enough in itself to give you a high.

Pro's:
- Tremendous scenery
- You will make friends
- Great exercise
- An achievement to be proud of
- Cheap accommodation and board

Con's:
- Inherently difficult, even painful
- Requires a good length of time to complete
- Once you've seen one Romanesque church...
- Dormitory accommodation in albergues
- Not all Caminoites are entirely, how can I put this? normal

You'll like it if you like:
Country hikes (not strolls), physical challenge, country villages and churches, Romanesque architecture.

More Camino de Santiago:
Camino de Santiago Links
Navarre
   Roncesvalles
   Pamplona
   Puente la Reina-Gares
   Estella-Lizarra
   Los Arcos
   Viana
La Rioja
   Logroño
   Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Castile and León
   Burgos
      Burgos (City)
   Palencia
   León
      León (City)
      Astorga
      El Bierzo
         Ponferrada
Galicia
   Lugo
   La Coruña
      Santiago de Compostela