Spain and Portugal for Visitors

Madrid

Spain's capital is also its most popular destination, not just for visitors passing through to other parts of the country, but also in itself, as a citybreak or as a base for exploring the centre of Spain. Slap-bang in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula, Madrid is a large city but, like other Spanish towns, its verticality means it is relatively compact, and most of its museums, parks and monuments are within walking distance of each other or, at most, a bus or metro ride away. The most lasting impression for most visitors, though, is not left by the Prado Museum or Retiro Park, but by its inhabitants, the ever hospitable, generally courteous and unbelievably party-hungry Madrileños.

Madrid's population has swelled over the last three or four decades, inflated first by immigration from other parts of Spain, and more recently by an influx of Moroccan, South American and East European immigrants, which may be why, in spite of the four million or so inhabitants of Greater Madrid, it often has a certain provincial feel to it, except in the business districts along the northern stretches of the Paseo de la Castellana, Madrid's north-south-running spinal cord. But as Barcelona sinks ever further into self-obsessed Catalanism, Madrid reveals itself as the most cosmopolitan place in Spain, and its shops and restaurants are as sophisticated as any in Europe. The latter, in particular, offer the best food and drink from all over the country, as well as South and Central America. North American-type fastfood outlets are to be found, as well, though the formula has to an extent been reinvented with a Spanish face in the form of bocadillerías.

Areas of Madrid. Madrid's administrative divisions into districts and barrios, quarters, are bureaucratic and cumbersome and not generally used. Like London, Madrid breaks up fairly naturally into historical districts, though some overlap: mediaeval Madrid, Hapsburg Madrid, Madrid de las Letras, Bourbon Madrid, and so on. But the names of its metro stations are usually the most natural way of referring to different parts of the city, and visitors soon pick up the habit of answering "Where are we?" in the same way: Sol, Opera, Alonso Martinez, Chueca, Atocha, Gran Vía, and so on (this can be slightly confusing when the metro station of the area in question has the name of another place, like Bilbao, and doubly so when there is also a Barrio de Bilbao).

Sights and Visits. Madrid is full of monuments, historic buildings and museums, some of which are among the greatest in the world, particularly the incomparable Museo del Prado. Its unknown jewels, though, and not just for garden enthusiasts, are its parks like the Buen Retiro, El Capricho, or the Casa de Campo. Madrid's museums include the so-called "Golden Triangle" of art galleries: the Museo del Prado, with its great Old Masters'; the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, almost as interesting as the Prado and far more accessible; and the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, dedicated to modern art. And, of course, Madrid has a host of other museums, some major like the Museo Arqueológico Nacional, National Archaeology Museum, others less important but extremely memorable, like the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, Convent of the Poor Claires. And Madrid's more important sights and landmarks range from the Palacio Real, Royal Palace, and the adjacent Cathedral, la Almudena, cathedral, to the Gran Vía, where  Spain's earliest skyscraper, the Telefónica Building, can be seen, or the Puerta de Alcalá arch, marked by Napoleonic War shellfire. For more information, see the Spain and Portugal for Visitors Madrid Sights and Visits page.

Madrid Weather and When to Go. Madrid's climate is continental Mediterranean, dry and warm, with short springs and autumns and hot summers. Winter nights can be very chilly, especially in the northern (higher) part of the city, though the old saying that the weather in Madrid was "nine months of winter and three months of hell" cannot be said to be true any more, whether because of global warming or other climate change. Madrid Fiestas and Festivals. There is usually some kind of festivity happening in Madrid, though with so much going on anyway this often seems redundant. But from the celebrations of the city's patron saint, San Isidro (Isidore), in the middle of May (May 15), through the summer Veranos de la Villa to the autumn Festival del Otoño and the fiestas of its other patron saint, the Virgen de la Paloma, Virgin of the Dove, in November (November 9), rather than stopping and starting, the parties just seem to run into each other. And Madrid's justly famous nightlife can be equally absorbing, so much so that it is often (wrongly) supposed that the other nickname for the capital's people, gatos, cats, comes from their nocturnal customs.

What's On. Madrid's entertainment is varied to match its love of the night. Theatre is resolutely Spanish-language, with a few exceptions such as festival appearances by foreign companies. Home DVD and television have had their effect, as everywhere, but the cinema is still very popular, usually dubbed into Spanish, though English and other language versions (with subtitles in Spanish) of the biggest hits can be seen (watch out for the label V.O.S.). In music, Madrid is no great shakes classically, but the best orchestras and opera companies visit, as do top pop and rock groups. And Madrid is in many ways Spain's flamenco capital, not where its origins lie but where the visitor has most possibilities of seeing a good tablao, flamenco show.

Madrid for Shopping. The area between the Puerta del Sol and the Gran Vía will fulfil most people's shopping needs. High fashion seekers and those looking for that special gift can head for the often exclusive shops on and around the Calle Serrano. El Rastro, the Sunday flea market in the La Latina quarter, also held on public holidays, is an experience whether or not you buy anything, but watch out for pickpockets. If malls are your thing, a number of new shopping developments exist, the one in the Estación del Norte railway station being of most interest to visitors.

Eating and Drinking. Madrid has more bars per square kilometre than almost anywhere in the world, most offering some sort of food. Madrid specialities include cocido madrileño, a thick, heavy chick-pea stew which I greatly recommend, and callos a la madrileña, a tripe stew which I definitely do not. In addition, the dishes, roast meats and garlic soups of New Castile (to which Madrid really belongs) can be found. And, as I have said, the best of Spain's regional gastronomy, the cuisines of Galicia, Extremadura, Asturias, the Basque Country, and so on, are also well represented. Argentine restaurants are almost traditional, and newer and fresher are the many Colombian and, especially, Ecuatorian restaurants. "Classic" Madrid restaurants include:

• Botín (Guinness-listed as the oldest restaurant in the world)
• Casa Lucio (the king's fave)
• Casa Paco
• Posada de la Villa

Getting Around Madrid. If you are centrally located, you may not need to use Madrid's very comprehensive public transport at all. If you do, the Metro is usually the fastest and easiest form to use. The bus network is very efficient, and buhos, nighttime services, are run all through the night. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced, and may be your best way of getting in from the airport until the metro station for the new Terminal 4 has been built (allow around 25-30 euros - there are also buses if you prefer to pay less).

Getting There. Madrid is one of the best connected places in the world, and about the only impractical way of getting there is by ferry. By Air. Madrid Barajas Airport is considered Europe's node of connection with the Americas, particularly Central and South America, and is the operational base for Spain's erstwhile national airline, Iberia, which you will probably want to avoid because of its high prices and occasionally spectacularly offensive staff (standards have improved greatly in recent years). Most airlines now fly to Madrid's new Terminal 4, where the teething troubles (luggage was initially lost almost as a matter of routine) seem to be over, but note that getting into the city from there is significantly more arduous than from the old Terminal 2. There are too many budget airlines operating routes to Madrid to list: for British travellers, easyJet is probably the most useful (see under Getting There > Airlines), but others include British Midland. If you are already within the Iberian Peninsula, the Barcelona-based low-cost flight operator Vueling is tremendously useful. By Rail. Madrid is the centre of Spain's railway network, to the extent that you are sometimes obliged to travel through it even when you would rather not. Note that the Barcelona-Madrid high-speed (AVE) railway connection still does not work as such, and you will probably prefer the puente aereo, air shuttle. By Road. Allow about six hours if you are entering Spain from Biarritz, nearly nine if you are coming from Perpignan. By Bus. Eurolines connects Madrid with Great Britain and the rest of Europe (see under Getting There > International Buses).



Pro's:
- Its museums, particularly the big three, the Prado, Reina Sofia and the Thyssen
- Parks and gardens
- Nightlife
- Good, sometimes great hotels
- Food and drink, whether you are on a budget or inclined to splash out
- Good public transport

Con's:
- Heavy, often impossible traffic
- Constant public works
- Occasionally high pollution levels (especially when a temperature inversion occurs, in spring or autumn)

You'll like it if you like:
Paris, Rome, art, nightlife 'til dawn (and beyond), good restaurants, the good life in general...


More Madrid:
Madrid Introduction:
   Madrid Basics
   Historic Madrid
   Madrid Hotels
More Madrid:
   Madrid Aparthotels
   Madrid Apartments
   Madrid Bars/Pubs
   Madrid Football
   Madrid Gardens
   Madrid History
   Madrid Hostals
   Madrid Last-Min.
   Madrid Links
   Madrid Museums
   Madrid Nightlife
   Madrid Photos
   Madrid Region
   Madrid Restaurants
   Madrid Shopping
   Madrid Tours
   Madrid Transport
   Madrid Weather