Spain and Portugal for Visitors

Christmas, Navidad, in Spain differs from that in what are called here "Anglo-Saxon" countries (although there are similarities, not all of them likeable: villancicos, Spanish carols, begin to be piped in the supermarkets in November). The first difference is that the Christmas tree is seen as a modern import. Many if not most families put one up, but the important element in Christmas decoration is the belén, the crib or nativity scene. Street markets sell the relevant figures, which range from small, plastic things to porcelain or pottery wonders. A lot of work may be put into the belén and parents will move the Three Kings' camels overnight to create the impression that they are getting closer.

The Approach of Christmas 

Advent is, on the whole, ignored in Spain, even by Catholics. Here, the first important Christmas date is December 8th, the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday. A ceremony called the seises, sixes, takes place in front of the cathedral in Seville. It is a ritual dance dating back to at least 1439.

The next important event occurs on December 22nd, when the draw of the state-run Christmas lottery is held. This is the biggest draw of the year, and practically everyone will have bought tickets, swapped tickets and been given infinitesimally small participations in a lottery number by their local shopkeepers... And those who win only small amounts will reinvest their gains in the next draw, El Niño, which is held on January 6th, the Day of the Kings.

From Christmas Eve to the Inocentes

Inevitably in Spain, eating plays a tremendous part at Christmas. Prices of certain foods (angulas (elvers), sea-food in general, lamb...) soar, and many people begin stocking up weeks or even months ahead. The real celebrations get under way on Nochebuena, Christmas Eve. Most businesses work only a half-day, so that people can prepare for the evening, when there is usually a copious family dinner which may begin at around half-past nine or ten, or later, according to the family tradition. In religious households, dinner may follow the midnight Misa del Gallo (lit. mass of the rooster) and be accordingly lighter. It often starts with an enormous amount of aperitivos (in this case, more like starters than appetizers): ahumados (smoked things: salmon, trout...), seafood (prawns, goose-barnacles...), lumpfish caviar, cured ham... Freshly-grilled carabineros, dark-coloured prawns the size of a telephone handset) are often served and eaten with the fingers... And then comes the first course, which, for obvious reasons, will be unusually light: asparagus with mayonnaise, consommé (often Madrilenian, using a chicken or chicken and ham stock, and served with a splash of sherry wine) or stewed mushrooms... The "main" course will be something special, such as grilled suckling-lamb chops, pheasant, or sea-bream baked with garlic. Dessert is often no more than fruit, because the sweets are brought out after that: turrón, the nougat which is traditionally eaten only at this time of year and of which there are now a large variety of kinds, jellied fruits, marzipan, polvorones (another almond-based sweet), candies...

Neither Father Christmas nor Santa Claus is the traditional bringer of presents and, what is more, gifts are not traditionally given on Christmas Day (that comes later). Nowadays, however, many parents give their children gifts on Christmas Day so they can enjoy their toys throughout the Christmas holiday. But December 25th is still a holiday, and, once again, that means food. Christmas lunch will be similar to the dinner the previous night, although the first and main courses will be more important and the aperitivos perhaps (only perhaps) less so.

Boxing Day is not celebrated in Spain, which after the culinary experience you have just been through may be a relief. December 28th is not a holiday, but is celebrated in its way. It is the Día de los Inocentes, the Holy Innocents, and in Spain it is a day when people play practical jokes.

From New Year's Eve to Epiphany

The next date on the Christmas calendar is Nochevieja, New Year's Eve. This night of the year is not important in the same way as, for example, Hogmanay in Scotland, but is properly celebrated. It tends to be another family affair with, you guessed it, an enormous dinner, much like the one on Christmas Eve, although people also have parties, go to discotheques... At midnight, one way or another, most people hear the twelve strokes of the clock in the Puerta del Sol in Madrid. It is de rigeur to eat a grape with each stroke of the twelve bells from the clock. This is, in fact, the result of a very clever marketing trick: in 1909, the grape harvest was very good, with the result that prices were pushed down and by Christmas, there were still large stocks of grapes left. The harvesters (it is hard to find a single origin) put the word around that it was good luck to eat a grape with each stroke of the clock bell, and it caught on. (It seems likely that this is a hearkening-back to an older tradition: in some parts, the same is said to be done with olives.)

As in most parts, New Year's Day is a holiday dedicated to recovering from the night before. Practically everything is closed and hardly any buses run. But, this being Spain, we have to have another meal. By this time, people are seriously flagging, but the New Year's Day lunch is unavoidable. It will be similar to the other meals in this season, though the cook may scratch his or her head to introduce variety. Perhaps the main course will be roast suckling-pig or goat, or quail...

On the night of January 5th, children leave their shoes (not socks) in a prominent place when they go to bed, as the next day is Epiphany (a public holiday). It is known here as the Día de los Reyes, Day of the Kings, Melchor, Gaspar and Baltazar, whom Anglo-Saxons call the Three Wise Men or Magi. These are the gift bearers, which is at least more consistent with the Christmas story than the obviously pagan Santa Claus. Children send letters to them in the same way as they do to Father Christmas in more Protestant countries, and wake up on January 6th to find that the Three Kings have left presents. There will, of course, be a family meal. By now, even the most imaginative cook is running out of ideas, and even the most gluttonous are losing their appetites, so this lunch often serves as a kind of winding-up, an attempt being made to finish off, first the aperitivos, and later, the turrón. In the afternoon, local celebrities, football players or even politicians dress up as the Three Kings and parades are held, with the Magi throwing sweets to the children from their floats. And the next day, back to work or school, until the next fiestas.

All photographs are copyright © Sagrario Gallego, and may not be reproduced without written permission.

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