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Alicante has long been a prosperous town, both for the rich
fishing grounds reached from its harbours and the market gardens
of the fertile plain inland of it. Its beaches are superb,
with fine, pale sand, in some cases extending literally as
far as the eye can see, and its climate is excellent, the
Costa Blanca having the longest summer season in Spain, and
mild winters only spoilt by occasional torrential rainstorms.
What to
See
The slopes of Alicante's pavements, the layout of its streets,
the salty smell breezing in from the south, all push or pull
the visitor down towards the seafront, the undeniable star
of the city. Its beaches, its lovely palm-tree-shaded promenade,
its marina; these are the essence of Alicante. And it is still
a serious working port, though less than in the past and most
visitors do not see anything more seaworthy than the Tabarca
ferry in the marina.
The Seafront. Alicante's promenade, the Explanada
de España, is one of the most appealing you will see
anywhere, with its palm trees and carefully gardened flower
beds, its wavy tiles in three colours (representing the sea),
its stalls, tourists drinking at pavement cafés, and
locals taking the air from their park benches. It is as if
a romantically minded town planner had wanted to make an area
to illustrate the Spanish custom of the paseo, evening
stroll. At the west end of the Explanada, crossing over the
road to the waterside, there is a bar ( I imagine it is a
pub, late-night bar, as the drinks are a little expensive
and no food is served), which is built out on planks over
the waters of the marina and you can watch the fish under
your feet as you have your drink.
To get to the marina itself, you need
to head for the estación marítima on
the quay which begins at the east end (on the left as you
look towards the sea) of the promenade, behind the Hotel Melia.
It is difficult not to swagger nautically as you follow the
quay round, gawking at the boats, some of which are larger
than local ferries. A great deal of money has been spent here
in recent years as well, and you have plenty of choice of
restaurants, bars, pubs... And on the other side of the marina,
there is an indoor leisure area, with cinemas and a shopping
centre.
Just on the other side of the Hotel
Melía begins the beach, and a fine beach it is too,
overlooked by the castle. The Playa del Postiguet is sometimes
criticised as being a little grubby, which is normally unjustified
except to the extent that it is, after all, an urban beach,
and a popular one. It is, in fact a European Blue Flag beach,
running east to and beyond the FGV railway station.
The Old Quarter. The casco antiguo or Barrio
Santa Cruz nestles at the foot of Monte Benacantil, behind
the Avenida Juan Bautista, and is enjoyable to explore, though
it has no great sights. The Ayuntamiento, city hall,
has a handsome façade, the Ermita (hermitage)
de San Roque contains a gypsy Christ which the tourist
board's website calls "poignant," but it is the
mediaeval feel to the streets that gives el barrio its
appeal. Try and see it in the daylight, though you are quite
likely to spend some time here at night.
The City Centre. Alicante has a feel to it, something
that tells you where you are even when you are looking at
the local El Corte Inglés, the department store found
throughout the country which is identical everywhere. It may
be something about the light, or the city's broad avenues
and squares, fine, tree-shaded affairs, designed for a leisurely
stroll or a brisk shopping spree alike. While you are in the
centre, try to see the huge Mercado Central, central
market. And down towards the sea, the Plaza Gabriel
Miró is worth making a detour for, with its extraordinary,
dreamlike combination of the curves of the Art Deco (I think)
sculptures; the water from the fountains; exposed, twisted
tree roots; and creepers on the trees.
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What to See (cont.) / When
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