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The Castle. Alicante has only one sight as such, the
imposing Santa Barbara Castle, one of the largest in the Spanish
Mediterranean. Looking thoroughly impressive, high on Mount
Benacantil, a hill overlooking the town, it is slightly disappointing
for castle buffs to actually visit, having been prettified
inside so that much of it looks more like a park than a serious
fortification (in fact, it contains the CAPA collection of
Spanish modern sculpture). But the views from it are tremendous,
and castle enthusiasts will be able to identify the three
different areas representing its history. The present fortress
(there were others before) was originally built by the Moors
in the 9th century, though the oldest visible remains are
those at the highest part of the castle and date from the
11th-13th centuries. You can approach the castle by road,
winding up the hill from the old quarter; if you are on foot,
it is quicker to take the lift from the road behind the Playa
del Postiguet, the lift shaft seemingly being right in the
middle of the hill.
Museums. Alicante is
constantly renovating its museum scene, and if your guide
book is more than a couple of years old, you will think it
is describing a different city — a number of museums
are currently closed, and others have just been opened. The
provincial archeological museum, the MARQ,
is well worth at least a couple of hours (don't walk from
the centre, get a bus). It is a modern museum in terms of
conception, with three rooms dedicated to the art of excavation,
including underwater archaeology. The most important exhibits
are in the Iberian (pre-Roman) room.
The castle contains the CAPA collection
of Spanish contemporary sculpture museum, which the tourist
board says "is the most complete collection of contemporary
Spanish sculpture on exhibition in the world," with "works,
dating from the 19th and 20th century and by artists of the
calibre of Benlliure, Macho, Inurria, Oteiza, Dalí,
etc.," to which I have nothing to add, except that I
prefer castles to be castles, myself.
The Gravina
Fine Arts Museum in c/ Gravina in the Barrio Santa
Cruz is new, and looks most attractive, though I have not
yet seen it. The old fish market, the Lonja de Pescado,
has been converted into an exhibition centre, and the Museo
Taurino, bullfighting museum, specialising in local bullfighters,
is also new. The University
Museum is dedicated exclusively to contemporary art
and is probably too far away for most visitors to bother with.
When
to Go/Fiestas
Being a working city, Alicante does not get that ghost-town
look out of season, and its climate also makes it attractive
for a winter break. Remember that the Levante can suffer tremendous
rainstorms, including flooding, in spring and, especially,
autumn. Alicante is brilliant in the summer, though it can
be oppressively crowded during school holidays.
Fiestas. Alicante's most important festival is San
Juan, celebrated from the 20th to 29th June, with bonfires
and fireworks, especially on the Playa de San Juan. Alicante's
various quarters celebrate different events throughout the
year. In July, the Saint's Day of the Virgen del Carmen,
patron saint of sailors, is celebrated on the Island of Tabarca.
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Eating and Drinking
/ Nightlife
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