Asturias

History. Asturias was the region where the Visigothic nobles and the few Ibero-Romans who supported them took refuge when the Moorish armies swept unstoppably up the Iberian Peninsula from Gibraltar. Under the leadership of Pelayo, these Christians halted the Arab expansion at the Battle of Cobadonga in 722, after which Pelayo was proclaimed king (this place in the history of Spain is reflected by the heir to the Spanish throne being given the title Prince of Asturias, like the British Prince of Wales). Around about 924, the Kingdom of Asturias mutated into the Kingdom of León, and Asturias itself relapsed into the rural backwardness which has usually characterised it. In spite of being one of the first areas in Spain to undergo an industrial revolution (powered by abundant locally mined coal), it has long been subject to a pattern of forced emigration (as in neighbouring Galicia), and traces of Asturian culture are often found in the Americas.

Asturias for Visitors. The rural nature of the region makes it attractive to visitors, though its lack of accessibility has prevented tourist development in the past. Unlike Galicia, the picturesqueness of which most lies on its rugged shores, both coastal and inland Asturias are lovely, and it would be difficult (and unnecessary) to choose between them.

The coast of Asturias is less dramatic than that of Galicia, and populated by attractive fishing towns and villages, from the bustling port of Luarca in the west, to the beautiful harbour of Cudillero, whose main square seems to slide gently into the sea, or Ribadesella, located on the mouth of the River Sella, where a famous canoe race ends every year, or the charming and cheerful seaside resort of Llanes in the east.

The landscape of inland Asturias is verdant and at least rolling, more often mountainous, for the Cantabrian Mountains which run along the whole north coast of Spain rise to their greatest heights here in the Picos de Europa. These mountains straddle Asturias, Cantabria and León and are home to the last Iberian brown bears, among other flora and fauna of note. The original Covadonga National Park was expanded to include most of the Picos in 1995 to protect both their wildlife and the age-old way of life carried on there. This is called transhumance and is common with sheep, but in Asturias it involves cattle being moved up the mountain slopes in spring to graze on the fresh green pastures and down into the valleys in autumn for protection from the rigors of winter.

Food and drink. The gastronomy of Asturias naturally reflects this traditional way of life, and both beef and dairy products are excellent, one outstanding example of the area's cheeses being a particularly pungent blue cheese from Cabrales in the Picos de Europa. The most famous local dish, however is Fabada Asturiana, a filling stew of large, white beans (fabes) with various pork products - chorizo (paprika sausage), morcilla (blood pudding), lacón (shoulder of pork), and tocino or panceta (types of unrendered pork fat). In terms of drink, the orchards of Asturias provide the apples for a kind of cider. This is clear, strong and only slightly sparkling. The process of pouring it (the bottle is held above the pourer's head, the glass at thigh level) gives it a small amount of fizz, but it needs to be drunk almost immediately.

Language. Practically everyone in Asturias speaks Castilian Spanish, but the region has its own language, Asturian or Astur-Leonese, Bable in Asturian. It is not a thriving language in the same way as Basque or Catalan, partly because it is not official in the same way as they are, but is being kept alive. For visitors, it is not likely to be relevant unless you have a particular interest in the subject.

Architecture. As well as the charm of the folk architecture found in the fishing and farming villages of Asturias, both Romanesque and, more singularly, pre-Romanesque architecture are well represented in the area.

Getting around. If the Picos de Europa is your destination, you do not really need a vehicle, as this national park is closed to traffic. Otherwise, car rental is recommendable. The FEVE narrow-gauge railway which runs all along the north coast of Spain is a possibility, but would limit your movements inland.

Getting there. British Airways now operates three direct flights a week between Gatwick and Asturias Airport, near Avilés, starting at about £140 one way. Easyjet connects Stansted and Bilbao for a mere £18-£50.

Asturias Links Directory

Selected Links

Infoasturias - Best of the Net
The long-awaited official site of the regional tourist authority is awesome. It is beautiful to look at, helpful, informative and comprehensive, and has a few multimedia extras thorwn in to make it more entertaining. Unfortunately, its accommodation booking service does not work properly, at least for me.

Oviedo - World Heritage Site
The UNESCO account of why Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a world heritage site.

The Picos de Europa National Park - official page
Spanish-only web pages from the Spanish Ministry of the Environment.