Cantabria

Geographically, Cantabria is shaped by the Cantabrian Sea to the north and the Cantabrian Mountains, la Cordillera Cantábrica, to the south (the latter rising to become the Picos de Europa, straddling Cantabria, Asturias and León). Their proximity means that (except for the Ebro, which is born in the Picos but not really a native of these parts), the necessarily short rivers of Cantabria fall into the sea with great power, carving V-shaped valleys and gorges out of the land. This type of terrain defines the Cantabrian cornice ("cornice" means "ledge"), which holds much of the north of Spain suspended over the sea.

Cantabria for Visitors. Like the rest of the north of Spain, the province of Cantabria is largely unknown to foreign visitors, but this is less the case of the Spanish themselves. Cantabria has most of the attractions typical of the north of Spain (beautiful countryside, gorgeous coastline, historic towns and villages, fabulous food and drink), lacks the political problems of the neighbouring Basque Country, and is more reachable from most of Spain than Asturias or Galicia. So, for example, although a working, thriving port, Santander, Cantabria's capital, has long been popular as a resort with Spain's well-to-do. Hotels and other types of accommodation are plentiful but sought after, and casas rurales in particular (the term encompasses both rented country cottages and small country hotels) are in fashion, so at peak season vacancies can be scarce and accommodation far from cheap. Its main points of interest are the capital itself, home to about a third of the population of the province; Altamira; Santillana del Mar and a host of attractive country towns and fishing villages; its gastronomy; and the Picos de Europa, which stretch into the west of the region.

Cantabrian Highlights

Santander. If Santander were a garment, it would be a blazer, with brass buttons and a crest on the breast pocket. Though historic, Cantabria's capital and only important city is essentially a twentieth-century affair, largely because its port was destroyed by an enormous explosion in 1893, and much of its old centre was consumed by a fire in 1941. But Santander does not feel in the least modern: its graceful streets have both a jaunty maritime air and the suggestion you might encounter visiting minor royalty just around the corner. Its casino may not be as fashionable as in the past and diamond tiaras may be fewer on the ground, but Santander still has a lovely gentility about it, fortunately not reflected in its prices, with exceptions.

Alfonso XIII and his court put Santander on the socialite map when they adopted it for their summer vacations. The promenade of El Sardinero beach and the Gran Casino date from this time, as does the Magdalena Palace which stands in the middle of a park on a promontory next to El Sardinero, and many of the hotels in the area.

Altamira. The most famous ancient inhabitants of Cantabria were less warlike than the Cantabri, though no less savage. To protect its famous 15,000-year-old cave paintings, the Altamira Cave near Santillana del Mar only accepts 8,500 visitors a year, which means there is now a three-year waiting list. Fortunately, the new museum includes a reproduction of the cave which is almost indistinguishable from the original.

Santillana del Mar. Cobbled streets, Renaissance mansions and palaces, livestock in the streets... Santillana del Mar is said to be three times a lie, for it is neither santo (holy), llano (flat it definitely isn't) nor del mar. But it is undeniably gorgeous, has an interesting and important zoo and is within walking distance of the adjacent Altamira Cave and its museum.

Practical Cantabria

Eating and Drinking. Santander's gastronomic strong point is its fish restaurants, though meat-eaters need not go hungry either. Sorropotún is a Cantabrian stew of tuna and potatoes. Cocido montañés is a fabulous white-bean stew typical of western Cantabria. The Río Asón in the north-west of the province is a salmon river, the trout and eels from its waters also being famous. The wonderfully named olla ferroviaria, a meat and potato stew which needs to be made slowly in an extraordinary kind of metal pot, is typical of the Campoo region: the name comes from its popularity with railway workers, who originally made it by running steam from the engine in a pipe to heat a vessel.

Cantabria is not a great wine-making province, and has no denominación de origen. In fact, tostadillo is the only wine produced in Cantabria. It is said to be a light, sweet wine (I have never tried it), is made in Liébana and at over twenty euros a bottle is far from cheap, solely because of its curiosity value I suspect. The orujo from the same area is also famous - try a little with your coffee after a big meal.

Getting Around. The FEVE runs along the entire coast of Cantabria and is an interesting possibility if you lack a car. Otherwise, rental is recommendable.

Getting There. Santander is easily reached by bus or train from Bilbao, in turn well connected by air - Easyjet, for example, operates flights from Stansted. Brittany Ferries operates a route between Plymouth and Santander: it is not cheap, but you can take your car and treat the ferry journey itself as a kind of miniature cruise.