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John Ross
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Valencia Sights (cont.), and When to Go

 
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 More Valencia
 
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Sights (1)
When to Go
Eating/Drinking
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Around Valencia
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Click to enlarge
 
Lonja de la Seda
 
   
 
   
Live eels
 
   

The 16th-century Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) is well worth a visit (weekdays and Sunday mornings only). One of the finest Gothic buildings in Spain, with a gargoyle-studded facade and elegantly columned interior, it evokes images of affluently robed merchants and diligent scribes. Just over the road you will find the fantastic Mercado Central (market), in my opinion one of the most remarkable sights in the whole of Spain, less for its turn-of-the-century ironwork and glass exterior than for inside, where stall after stall displays local market garden produce, fantastic seafood and other delights, especially live eels.

Click to enlarge
Two views of the Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas
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Valencia is well provided with Baroque architecture, both secular and ecclesiastic. Personally, though I recognise the importance of the Museo Nacional de Cerámica (Pottery Museum), I must admit that deep down I can take it or leave it. The building housing it, however, the Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas, is a delirious must-see.

Other museums include the Museu de Belles Arts, with interesting works by Bosch, El Greco, Goya and the rest of the gang, the Museu Taurino (Bullfighting Museum) and the awkward-to-get-to Museu Faller, where the best of each year's ninots (effigies burnt during the Fallas) end up. And the two centres of the IVAM (contemporary art institute) should keep modern art lovers happy.

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Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias
 
   
 
   

On the road out to the beach, the tremendously ambitious (but frankly impressive) new Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, City of the Arts and Science, is worth several pages to itself. The enormous complex includes a huge science museum (allow at least two hours, though it is possible to potter quite happily around the lobby for a quarter of an hour or so, and without paying the entrance fee), a planetarium, an unfinished concert hall and the massive L'Oceanografic, oceanarium. This last was scheduled to open in December, 2002, but I have heard nothing about it so I think it must have been put back again.

When to Go/Fiestas

Valencia is as festive a city as any in Spain, which is saying something, lively all year round, with a lull in August which you will not notice unless you can make comparisons. The most important time of year is the Fiesta de las Fallas, March 12-19 (reserve your accommodation well ahead), centred around giant, papier-maché sculptures, fallas. These are beautifully made, satirical effigies which are burnt on bonfires around the city on March 19, beginning at midnight, the best being left for last. During the week, there are also fireworks, concerts and an important bullfighting season.

Easter is important, as it is everywhere in Spain.

Valencia's Feria de Julio sees the themes of fireworks, bullfights and music repeated, with a "battle of the flowers" thrown in.

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