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Lonja de la Seda
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Live eels
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The 16th-century Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange)
is well worth a visit (weekdays and Sunday mornings only).
One of the finest Gothic buildings in Spain, with a gargoyle-studded
facade and elegantly columned interior, it evokes images of
affluently robed merchants and diligent scribes. Just over
the road you will find the fantastic Mercado Central
(market), in my opinion one of the most remarkable sights
in the whole of Spain, less for its turn-of-the-century ironwork
and glass exterior than for inside, where stall after stall
displays local market garden produce, fantastic seafood and
other delights, especially live eels.
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Two views of the Palacio del Marqués
de Dos Aguas
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Valencia is well provided with Baroque architecture, both
secular and ecclesiastic. Personally, though I recognise the
importance of the Museo Nacional de Cerámica
(Pottery Museum), I must admit that deep down I can take it
or leave it. The building housing it, however, the Palacio
del Marqués de Dos Aguas, is a delirious must-see.
Other museums include the Museu de Belles Arts,
with interesting works by Bosch, El Greco, Goya and the rest
of the gang, the Museu Taurino (Bullfighting Museum)
and the awkward-to-get-to Museu Faller, where the best
of each year's ninots (effigies burnt during the Fallas)
end up. And the two centres of the IVAM
(contemporary art institute) should keep modern art lovers
happy.
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Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias
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On the road out to the beach, the tremendously ambitious
(but frankly impressive) new Ciudad
de las Artes y las Ciencias, City of the Arts and
Science, is worth several pages to itself. The enormous complex
includes a huge science museum (allow at least two hours,
though it is possible to potter quite happily around the lobby
for a quarter of an hour or so, and without paying the entrance
fee), a planetarium, an unfinished concert hall and the massive
L'Oceanografic, oceanarium. This last was scheduled
to open in December, 2002, but I have heard nothing about
it so I think it must have been put back again.
When to Go/Fiestas
Valencia is as festive a city as any in Spain, which is saying
something, lively all year round, with a lull in August which
you will not notice unless you can make comparisons. The most
important time of year is the Fiesta de las Fallas,
March 12-19 (reserve your accommodation well ahead), centred
around giant, papier-maché sculptures, fallas.
These are beautifully made, satirical effigies which are burnt
on bonfires around the city on March 19, beginning at midnight,
the best being left for last. During the week, there are also
fireworks, concerts and an important bullfighting season.
Easter is important, as it is everywhere in Spain.
Valencia's Feria de Julio sees the themes of fireworks,
bullfights and music repeated, with a "battle of the
flowers" thrown in.
Next:
"Eating and Drinking/Nightlife"
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